How do I know if my fabric is knitted or woven?

Stretch test: knit fabric stretches in at least one direction and returns to shape. Woven fabric has little stretch unless it contains elastane. If you can see loops (like a sweater), it's knit. If you see a grid of perpendicular threads, it's woven.

What about blended fabrics?

Classify by the fiber with the highest weight percentage. 60% cotton / 40% polyester = cotton rate. 50/50 blends: the fiber classified last in the tariff schedule determines the code (usually man-made fiber, which means the higher rate).

Do baby clothes get different HS codes?

Yes. Babies' garments (designed for children up to 24 months) have their own subheadings within Chapters 61 and 62. Example: 6111.20 for babies' garments of cotton, knitted. Rates are similar but the specific HTS-10 line items may differ.

Clothing HS Code — Knitted vs Woven, Fiber Content Classification

Apparel is the most classification-sensitive product category in trade. Chapter 61 (knitted) and Chapter 62 (woven) look similar but have different codes for every garment type. Then fiber content (cotton, polyester, wool) creates another split. The duty difference between a cotton knit t-shirt and a polyester woven shirt can be 15 percentage points.

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Chapter 61 vs Chapter 62 — the knit/woven split

Chapter 61 covers apparel that is knitted or crocheted. Chapter 62 covers apparel that is woven (not knitted). This is the first question customs asks: how was the fabric made?

Most t-shirts, sweaters, hoodies, leggings, and socks are knitted → Chapter 61. Most dress shirts, suits, trousers, blazers, and formal wear are woven → Chapter 62. Jeans are woven (62). Polo shirts are knitted (61).

Key apparel HS codes and US rates

The fiber content determines the rate within each chapter.

6109.10 — T-shirts, cotton, knitted: 16.5% US duty.
6109.90 — T-shirts, man-made fiber (polyester), knitted: 32%. Almost double the cotton rate.
6110.20 — Sweaters/pullovers, cotton: 16.5%.
6110.30 — Sweaters/pullovers, man-made fiber: 32%.
6203.42 — Men's trousers, cotton (jeans): 16.6%.
6203.43 — Men's trousers, synthetic: 27.9%.
6204.62 — Women's trousers, cotton: 16.6%.
6205.20 — Men's shirts, cotton, woven: 19.7%.
6104.62 — Women's trousers, cotton, knitted (leggings): 14.9%.
6201.12 — Men's overcoats, cotton: 8.4%.
6402.91 — Rubber/plastic footwear covering ankle: 6%.

The fiber content trap

Cotton garments almost always get lower duty than man-made fiber garments in the US. A 65/35 poly-cotton blend classifies by the predominant fiber — if it's 65% polyester, you pay the synthetic rate. Moving to 51% cotton can save 15+ percentage points in duty.

This is why sourcing teams specify fiber content in the PO. A supplier switching from 60% cotton to 60% polyester (common when cotton prices spike) changes your duty rate overnight.

Other countries

EU: flat 12% on most apparel (Chapter 61 and 62), no significant cotton/synthetic split. Much simpler than the US.

UK: similar to EU post-Brexit, 12% for most garments.

Canada: 17–18% MFN for most apparel. Among the highest in developed countries.

Frequently asked questions

How do I know if my fabric is knitted or woven?: Stretch test: knit fabric stretches in at least one direction and returns to shape. Woven fabric has little stretch unless it contains elastane. If you can see loops (like a sweater), it's knit. If you see a grid of perpendicular threads, it's woven.
What about blended fabrics?: Classify by the fiber with the highest weight percentage. 60% cotton / 40% polyester = cotton rate. 50/50 blends: the fiber classified last in the tariff schedule determines the code (usually man-made fiber, which means the higher rate).
Do baby clothes get different HS codes?: Yes. Babies' garments (designed for children up to 24 months) have their own subheadings within Chapters 61 and 62. Example: 6111.20 for babies' garments of cotton, knitted. Rates are similar but the specific HTS-10 line items may differ.

EU Import Duty on ApparelEU import duty on clothing is 12% MFN for most apparel (Ch. 61-62). Full rate table by HS code, with duty calculator. No signup needed.
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